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Then I did half the service and sat down in the restaurant and had dinner for the rest of the evening. In the kitchen of his west London flat, in the street where he has lived for 21 years, Hopkinson uncorks an excellent bottle of wine and slides a quiche lorraine from the oven on to the table.It's perfectly cooked, of course, with a silky and wibbly interior. There are over 87,000 different drink combinations at Starbucks, according to the coffee retailer’s website. From flu remedies to Harry Potter-inspired beverages, we highlight the weird and the wonderful brews and infusions. Simon Hopkinson was on holiday in Provence when Roast Chicken and Other Stories, the book of recipes he wrote 11 years ago, was recently voted the most useful cookery book of all time, beating the combined output of Delia Smith, Rick Stein, Nigel Slater, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and others.Last week, when the cookbook suddenly began selling more copies than Harry Potter, what was the author doing?He was just doing what Simon does, you know; eating and cooking with friends, poaching and filleting some zander, finishing it off with beurre blanc and wondering to himself: now, why can't I get this in more restaurants?Then he was buying tomatoes in the market, really glorious ones, and thinking, why can't I buy these at home? When you cut them open, they were red all the way through. I never cook with fresh tomatoes in London, and no wonder. "While Hopkinson was thus occupied, Waitrose Food Illustrated magazine had lined up a panel of more than 40 leading chefs, restaurateurs and food writers and asked them to consider 100 cookbooks, then choose the most indispensable one of all.

I broke down, and was sobbing and sobbing and sobbing. I did finish service and carried on cooking until New Year's Eve that year. Two more books and a series of newspaper columns followed and now Hopkinson is now receiving the respect and accreditation he deserves.Still, that does not stop him from buying all the newspaper and magazine food supplements every weekend and whipping himself into a frothy lather. You might as well say teaspoons are interesting."Now he finds a quiche lorraine recipe that calls for it to be baked on a medium heat for 20 minutes. Now 51, he lives alone, with his two Burmese cats, who eat their meals and drink their water from three pretty brass bowls - actually the prestigious Glenfiddich awards he won for his food writing. When Hopkinson was a head chef, his advice to the youngsters working for him was simple and true: cook what you really like to eat. His mother was a grammar school teacher; his father a dentist and they all loved their food. I did learn a lot from them because they both cook.Like a musician hearing music by reading it, Hopkinson can tell whether or not a recipe will work just by looking at it - and quite often he does not like what he sees."Oh, I tell you what gets my goat. Today, in most restaurants in London and elsewhere, he sees little evidence of this basic dictum and finds most of the dishes on offer are bland and boring, put together to please the egos of the bods in the kitchen, rather than the paying customer out front. Dad did experimental things, Mum was the queen of puddings and rabbit pie and all that sort of thing." Young Simon baked and baked and cooked and cooked. By the time he was a teenager, his signature dish was a starter of eggs with curried mayonnaise which the family christened Simon's Eggs.Look at this," he says, pulling out a recipe from a magazine. It's the same old dishes, he says, over and over again. What he really likes is traditional and proper food; say, the octopus and borlotti bean salad at the Cipriani, with maybe one of their silky baked pastas to follow. He only has a few favourite places because, "I never want to waste a lunch on somewhere that might not be good."Elsewhere, the news from the front is not good. He started his apprenticeship at La Normandie restaurant in Lancashire, practically the day he left school, and some of the things he learned there still stand him in good stead today. "There's just too much olive oil around now," he complains." 'Extracted from peanuts, groundnut oil has a subtle flavour and as such is extremely useful for cooking.' Eh? A sea of bland velouté; a daisychain of dishes that the cooks don't want to eat, but have put on the menu just for effect."Dots made with squeezy bottles and soup plates. A proper blow out at Le Gavroche or the Waterside Inn. "Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay and Marcus Wareing are all guilty of blandness. Flame lobsters with Pernod and cognac, flavour with cayenne pepper, shallot, garlic and parsley. After La Normandie, Hopkinson had his own restaurant in Wales, then was an Egon Ronay inspector for some years and also a private chef before opening a restaurant in south Kensington called Hilaire. Elizabeth David was a regular, and became a friend.

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